Questions about a hydraulic top link for 3-pt. carry-all and damaging the FEL

I am new to tractors and have recently bought a new Kubota, model B7800HST w/ FEL.  I purchased this tractor exclusively for pulling water around and for loader work: moving compost, manure, snow, gravel, and stones (300 - 600 lbs. range). 

Four questions:

1.  Currently I am using a trailer for hauling water.  My 5-acres is quite cramped and it is very difficult to maneuvre.  I am considering the additon of a 3-pt. carry-all as a solution.  A friend with a bit more tractor knowledge than me told me that I would likely need to install a hydraulic top-link for this type of implement, if I plan to haul water with it. My 75-gal. water tank weighs about 850 lbs., when full.  Is my friend correct?

2.  If yes, is adding a hydraulic top link something I can do myself, or am I better off going to my dealer for this type of work?   This sounds expensive, and  it would start to look like i  didn't do my homework very well.

3.  What is the benefit of a hydraulic top link over the standard link?

4.  With regards to the FEL, if I over-do it, such as hitting a root while scraping the ground, which is likely to give first: the the bucket or the hydraulics?

Thanks for you help.

1 - I maybe dumb, but I'm not sure why you need a hydraulic top link for this? Usually they are used for grading applications.

2 - go to  dealer, your talking about adding valves and hydraulic plumbing. If you don't know how to do it before starting, you'll defentialy get in over your head.

3 - you can adjust it from top link length from the seat. Like I said, its usually used in grading applciations where you need to tweak and implement to follow a contour.

4  - you are what will give first . The most common way to damage a loader is by bending the bucket cylindres. They are much stronger when retracted rather than pushed out the entire way.

baccini:

I am new to tractors and have recently bought a new Kubota, model B7800HST w/ FEL.  I purchased this tractor exclusively for pulling water around and for loader work: moving compost, manure, snow, gravel, and stones (300 - 600 lbs. range). 

Four questions:

1.    A friend with a bit more tractor knowledge than me told me that I would likely need to install a hydraulic top-link for this type of implement,

This makes no sense to me,, why a hydraulic top link to hold water? You have an manual and adjustable link that came with the tractor,, unless you have a spray bar and need to tilt the tank,, only spray bars I worked happened to be when we spread hot tar prior to seal coating roads. If just a tank to carry water for cattle, there would be absolutely no need for hydraulics,

2.  If yes, is adding a hydraulic top link something I can do myself, or am I better off going to my dealer for this type of work?  

Again, in the future are you going to be using a rear grading blade where top and tilt is used? If not, save your money for other implements,

3.  What is the benefit of a hydraulic top link over the standard link?
refer to #2 above, grading roads using a power rake,

4.  With regards to the FEL, if I over-do it, such as hitting a root while scraping the ground, which is likely to give first: the the bucket or the hydraulics?

I always back drag the area first, then you can see or feel what obstructions will be in the way,,

Thanks for you help.

Thanks for the information and the tip.  I'm out of central MA (leicester), by the way.

Your only a few miles from me then. I take Dead Horse hill all the time between rte 20 Charlton and into Worcester, What dealer were you working with? As I can guess.