Brake Fluid Advice

 Hey Guys.......Been out of touch since early May.  Lots of video production work for the Army and the Navy at places where internet was mostly blocked.  Anyway, now that we are back on the farm, we are doing a lot of catch up work that the live in hired hand didnt get done or just put off. 

One of the first things is doing the 2 year/200 hr service on the RTV.  No real problem as it looks straight forward and in the owner's manual...........EXCEPT.......the brake fluid change out.

Is this really necessary?  I know on BMW motorcycles it really is important as the hydroscopic qualities of brake fluid will pull in the humidity like a sponge here in Georgia, pitting the cylinders and messing up the seals...................So.....if it is needing to be done............

HOW.............????

Havent really looked yet, but I imagine each wheel has a cylinder of some type with a drain.............attach a hose to each wheel, one at a time............pump, loosen the plug, pump and hold to floor, tighten plug, let pedal up, loosen plug, push pedal down, tighten, let pedal up.................on and on.............do this while monitoring the master cylinder, keeping it full, until each wheel pumps out fresh clean fluid.............

I guess I hate to go through all of this if it really doesnt HAVE to be done................Thanks guys.........Dennis

Hi D&D, I have never changed mine, but I do have the info for doing it. I finally broke down and bought a shop manual from the nice folks at Messicks. {I also got the parts manual.} I am sure that they will quickly pay for themselves . The manual says to use only DOT-3. It also states not to let the reservoir run  completely empty during changing or the system will need to be air bled .It seems that you 1. jack up and remove front wheels 2. connect  clear plastic hose to bleeder and other end into a container. 3 remove brake fluid reservior cap  4. fill reservoir with new bf  5. temporarily put cap back on  6. open bleeder  . 7 pump brake pedal and hold it. 8 close bleeder and release brake pedal 9.repeat for other . 10 add fluid to upper level in reservoir. 11 after changing the fluid, check for proper function, 12 bleed air if necessary.IF the brakes feel spongy then they may have air in the line so will need to be bled before using. I believe this info to be correct but .... I have never done this. PM me if you would like the diagrams and I will see what I can do . I will check back tomorrow evening.  Bordercollie

 Hey Border Collie and thanks.............by the way, do you raise them???.............we use a BC with our goats for herding and HE is the most fantastic dog I have ever had............another thread but oh my such a dog.........

Yes, I understand the technique and totally understand the procedure...........What a pain in the tail to have to do.......I guess I am wondering if we really HAVE to do this..........Again, with motorcycles, specifically BMWs this is totally necessary.....Personal experience has burned me twice with a total rebuild of the master cyclinder and calipers. 

I guess I need to check out the location of the wheel cylinders and hope I dont have to pull the wheels to get acess to the bleeders to put the tube onto them..........What a pain.............So does one HAVE to do this????????.............Dennis

 Dennis  I ride a Honda Valkyrie motorcycle that recommends a brake fluid change when the fluid starts to get white or "milky".  The fluid is DOT4 which seems to absorb water faster - mine Vlk needs a change about every four years.  The change of fluid on the 900 using DOT3 fluid seems to be excessive.  The 900  is the first piece of equip,ment or motor vehicle that has ever stated a change every two years.  I looked under my 900 but could not see a bleeder valve.  Probably BC could enlighten us on where the "bleeder" valve is located.  It would probably not be a big deal to change the fluid every few years.  As much as I use my brakes I probably don't need to worry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    jd

 Hi Guys, According to my manual. ...... It shows the bleeder in two different places. In one picture, this bleeder is really close to the wheel{probably why they say to remove them} . Look on top of the axle in the 12 oclock position with the wheel removed,The other location is on the side of the engine/transmission area not too far  to the left of the large rubber side plug.... there is a  hose just below it according to the picture. Could this be the small item with the rubber cap that favors a grease fitting???? I don't know .... but will check it out tomorrow.Bordercollie

 Thanks BC............Yes, I need to break down and buy the manual......But golly, then I wouldnt get to share with folks on here.......Anyway, thanks....I guess when I do the maintenance next week I will follow lines from the master cylinder and see..........

The question still remains.........do I HAVE to do this........yes, I know maintenance is a must do item and not to be ignored; but is the system so fragile, like in motorcycles, that it really needs this attention.......I guess I am thinking of my ol 54 VW that just keeps on braking with 50 year old brake fluid intact.............Dennis

Hey again! I just checked out the pictures in  the parts manual as well after looking at my machine and the front bleeders are indeed on the top of the axle and are protected by  a guard device that has a"cap"with a small bolt on it.The rear bleeders  are there near that large plug and resemble a grease fitting but with a rubber cap. I agree half of the fun on a forum is the communication between all of us and the sharing info.It took me over 3 yrs to decide on  buying the manuals..... but then I do have over 2100 hrs on mine. I will always be glad to share info if I can find it.  I'm not saying you need  to buy one at all.  Just pictures are helpful  to me especially when putting things back together.. Ha ha. Yes, I have been in that situation more than once. On the pups.. We have 2.. Millie and Belle.. My sister and I went to Kentucky to pick them up as pups. We got lost late at night in the wrong part of Ft Campbell ..Finally got back on the interstate,found a safe room , next morning got the pups and headed home... It's a funny story in there about us getting lost  and what we saw ??? but anyway  we still laugh about that.Our pups have never been professionally trained but  Millie is especially good with the cows. She is obsessed with the 4whr. Belle tries to herd cows but she isn't observant. just looks one way... But she loves the RTV and will ride to the end of the earth and wait on the RTV for me there. Rattle the keys or pick up  the  pliers and she is ready to go.  They sleep in the house and love the A/C after working all day. Bordercollie

Some Tips I have found useful, empty the master cyl. and replace with fresh brake fluid before you start. That shortens the drain time. Second, Start at the farthest wheel cyl. which shortens the time to drain and buy a brake fluid vacuum. It will pull the fluid thru the system at the wheel cyl. and let you do the job by yourself. Changing the fluid removes the moisture that builds up in the system. KKubota may have some parts in brake system that moisture will be bad for.